Dermarolling, AKA microneedling. Not everyone knows what it is and how it can benefit your skin. And while some might be familiar with the term, there may be specific stigmas preventing them from considering it as part of a long-term skincare routine.

I'm here to shed some light on what dermarolling is, why its insanely beneficial for your skin, and what to look out for when choosing a dermaroller. For some of my followers, consider this a refresher, but if you're new to microneedling and you need quick information, consider this your ultimate guide.

What is Dermarolling AKA Microneedling?

This is a pretty straightforward answer. Also known as collagen induction therapy, microneedling, or dermarolling, is a cosmetic procedure that involves puncturing the skin repeatedly with miniscule, sterile needles in order to trigger collagen production and natural healing responses of the body. The upside of this? Increased collagen production tightens, firms, and keeps skin looking youthful, while the body's healing response kickstarts cellular turnover, producing new skin cells and shedding the old.

Why Should I Be Microneedling?

Good question. Serums, creams, toners, and face masks can only take you so far. As we age past twenty years old, we lose approximately 1% of collagen every year. And while some serums and boosters on the market promise an increase in collagen production, don't believe any product that claims to deliver collagen topically. It's a well known fact that the molecular size of collagen is too large to pass through the skin. So while collagen applied to the skin may moisturize and get your skin feeling smooth, it will do nothing to boost your overall skin's collagen levels.

This is where dermarolling comes into play. Dermarolling initiates natural collagen production under the skin's surface and triumphs where serums don't. As an added bonus, dermarolling can actually make serums and creams more effective, by allowing easier absorption and ultimately, higher efficacy of beauty products.

Doesn't Microneedling Hurt?

This is a common misconception. While there are different needle lengths, at most, dermarolling should only ever be mildly uncomfortable. As you are essentially penetrating the skin with microscopic needles, the "trauma" to the skin is rather miniscule. It does depend whether you perform at-home treatments or receive treatments at a local med spa; some estheticians may overwork the skin, causing pain and redness, whereas if you perform dermarolling in the comfort of your home, you get to decide what pressure to apply and what areas to target on your skin. 

Is It Safer to Get Professionally Microneedled?

This really depends on the user. If someone were to open a dermaroller fresh out of the box, disregard all of the cleaning and safety tips, and begin rolling haphazardly away on their face, I would say they should seriously consider just having a professional do it for them. However, as mentioned earlier, some estheticians simply overwork the face, causing redness, irritation, pain, and swelling, which contrary to popular opinion, is not supposed to happen during the dermarolling process. 

If performing microneedling sessions at home, it's easy to follow safety instructions and disinfection instructions. Plenty of people enjoy dermarolling from the comfort of their own home as well as graduating themselves over time from smaller needle sizes to larger ones.

What's the Best Dermaroller Needle Size for Me?

One size definitely doesn't fit all when it comes to dermaroller needle sizes. Certain lengths should be used with caution, especially around the face, while others are more gentle and don't penetrate the skin as deep. Here's the breakdown:

0.20MM: 

A needle size best for beginners, the 0.20mm needle length causes only micro-punctures to the epidermis (granular layer), but still creates enough penetration to stimulate growth factors and diminish fine lines.

0.25MM: 

The 0.25mm dermaroller penetrates slightly deeper than the 0.20mm, and is designed to be your go-to for gentle microneedling that improves serum penetration. It's also a great needle length for scar diminishing, cell turnover stimulation, lip plumping and skin resurfacing and rejuvenation.

0.5MM: 

The 0.5mm dermaroller is recommended for those with a little bit of dermarolling experience and more stubborn skin concerns. By extending needle depth penetration, cellular action and turnover occurs at a deeper level improving results for peskier wrinkles and even beginning levels of hair regrowth when applied to the scalp. It's also a go-to needle length for treating rosacea.

0.75MM: 

This needle length is best for shallow acne scars, distinct hyperpigmentation, loose skin, areas of lost volume, stubborn wrinkles and lines, and for male beard hair growth. It's also an excellent starting point for hair loss prevention and hair growth stimulation. It's recommended that you don't use a 0.75mm needle length anywhere on your forehead or around the eyes.

1.0MM: 

The longest needle length recommended for use on face, the 1.0mm dermaroller reaches the papillary layer of your skin's dermis, where deep acne scars, more advanced skin wrinkles, male beard growth/hair loss, or volume loss happens. This needle length is also an advanced treatment for hair loss prevention and hair growth stimulation and can be used directly on scalp, though some may want to consider numbing cream for this depth of skin penetration.

1.5MM: 

A needle length designed by Gin Amber Beauty to specifically to treat stretch marks on the body, this dermaroller can be used anywhere stretch marks occur, including the thighs, hips, buttocks, abdomen. For more sensitive areas, it's recommended to begin with a lower depth penetration length (0.75 or 1.0mm to begin treatment). And at this length, this dermaroller should be coming nowhere near your face.

I Have Acne. Should I Still Dermaroll?

While dermarolling for acne scars is an effective method for reducing the appearance of scar tissue, it's not recommended to dermaroll during an acne breakout. In fact, dermarolling over acne can cause bleeding or even spreading of pimples, so it's best to wait until your face clears up more before penetrating with needles on already irritated skin.

What Brand Dermaroller is the Best?

This is a question that's asked quite a bit and the answer is that there is no "best dermaroller" on the market. I've purchased a $300 gold dermaroller off the internet and found that it acted just as normally priced dermaroller would, except that it was exceptionally #shiny. 

When it comes to choosing a dermaroller, you want quality of needles over anything else. While some brands use real, medical-grade individual needles, such as Gin Amber Beauty's line of dermarollers, other brands use metal spokes or wheels, which are rough on the skin, can induce scarring and irritation, and leave you frustrated with the results. 

Why Am I Not Seeing Results With a Dermaroller?

Dermarolling takes time. But there are other factors you might not be considering, including method, frequency, and how long you've been dermarolling. 

Consider waiting a few weeks of consistent, proper dermarolling before assessing your results. Everyone's skin is different and it's important to note that while some may experience results within as little as a week, others' skin may take a little more time with its process. 

How Often Should I Dermaroll?

For beginners, it's recommended that you start with 1 to 2 times per week with the smallest needle size available. You can gradually increase needle size and frequency with consistent application, but make sure to pay attention to your skin and whether you're overworking it. Remember, skin takes time to heal, and your skin is akin to a muscle at the gym. You don't just start with the heaviest weights and the heaviest reps; consistency is key so start gentle and work your way up. You'll find the results are better than you expected.

Alright Amber Babies, that's all for this Q&A blog, I'll be posting another up soon on a similar topic, and I'm excited to share this with all of you. If you have any additional questions you'd like answered, don't hesitate to drop them in the comment section below!